Archive | October, 2011

The Height of Style by Decade: 1900-1910

26 Oct

As part of my newest conception for a blog series, I decided to cover the 20th century in fashion. While I love the diversity of today’s fashion landscape and its nod to globalism, fashion in the past decades truly represented the alignment of societal movements with standards of dress. In this series, I’ll cover a bit of history, a bit of  fashion trivia, and a lot of tips and links for dressing for now with a real sense of then.

So without further ado, let’s kick things off with the dawn of the 20th century—1900-1910. Commonly referred to as “La Belle Epoque” (or Beautiful Age), this was an era full of idealism and luxury—for those who could afford it. With Paris the epicenter of culture, and the invention of flight and motorcars sweeping this side of the Atlantic, wealthy Americans were on the go, and borrowing their style cues from decadent, ostentatious European times past—corsets, bustles, dramatic sleeves, pompadours and elaborate sweeping hems were de rigeur, despite their anachronism and foreign vocabulary! Practically speaking, this era saw the birth of the long, skirted traveling suit (for avoiding dust when traveling via auto); the shirtwaist blouse; a nice variation in necklines (from high and lacy to low and sweetheart); and Charles Dana Gibson’s “Gibson Girl”—the epitomization of  the new, emancipated (and beautiful) woman of the early 20th century.

Gibson Girls

Although many of the styles of this decade would look costumey if replicated accurately, the longer, sweeping hems, narrow shoes and booties, fitted blazers and ladylike blouses could be worked in—piece by piece—to the modern wardrobe as they are STILL fabulously fashionable. And if anyone is to pull off a voluminous pompadour or bun and make it look unquestionably ‘of the moment’, it’s a statuesque lass! When going for a 1900-1910-inspired look, think voluminous, think luxurious, think ladylike, and think no-holds-barred!

For item links, please see below

1) Barefoot Tess Bradford Bootie, $99

2) Jeffrey Campbell Ingles Bootie, $179

3) Banana Republic Tall Silk Swiss Dot Blouse, $69.50

4) Long Tall Sally Full Check Skirt, $95

5) J. Crew Tall Velvet Schoolboy Blazer, $168

6) Long Tall Sally Suedette Skirt, $69

7) New Look Tall Embellished Sheer Blouse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petites and Talls=Not As Different As You Might Think

13 Oct

Hello, leggy lovelies,

Excuse my long hiatus—fall has brought with it a ramp-up at work, and styling and moving to a new neighborhood have left me with nary a free moment! That said, I’m ready to be back in full blogging swing with a fun series kicking off next week on vintage and vintage-inspired fashion for talls! I’ll take you through the decades, and serve up a little fashion history, a dash of good visuals, and heaping spoonfuls of great tips for dressing with timeless panache.

But first, a little update on my styling work. I have been working with lots of new clients this fall, and am becoming very comfortable working with…petites! Most of my new assignments are petite (5’4”ish and under), and I’ve started to embrace the other side of the height spectrum—recognizing that style-related challenges on both sides of the bell curve can be quite similar (shoes in a size 5 are about as rare as 12s!) When I think about the handy-dandy little tips that I keep dispensing among my petite clientele, I think it’s high time I shared them with my tall readers as well!

Cleo Glyde, 6'1", and Bobbi Brown, 5'0" by Henry Leutwyler

  1.  Pants or denim should break over the back of your heel: Petite pants and jeans can be more economical in saving hemming costs, but some of my leggier petite clients even find petite pants to be too short. There are lots of dependencies when determining the correct length for a pant (Is it a trouser? A skinny leg? Are you wearing it with flats or heels?), but I generally use this rule of thumb: if you’re purchasing a work pant or non-skinny denim, the trouser/pant should  AT LEAST extend to the sole on the back of your heeled shoe. It can be any height of heel, but if the back of your shoe isn’t covered, the pant is too short.
  2.  Buy denim a bit small, but make sure the rise is flattering on you:  As tempting as it is to opt for jeans that are comfy and have “some give” from the first try, you should err on the tighter side—not restrictive or circulation-cutting, but snug. Most jeans have anywhere from 2%-15% spandex content, and will stretch with wear. But most important, make sure the rise is flattering for you. If you are bottom-heavy, opt for a lower rise to eliminate gapping (5” or so for talls) and a higher rise if you have a thicker waistline (8”+). The most flattering rise for all body types is mid-rise—somewhere in the 6”-7” range.
  3.  Apply the rule of 3: When my petite clients are transitioning into more colorful and experimental wardrobes, they sometimes express intimidation in going overboard with color. Based on some general design principles (and 60-30-10 proportions), I recommend the “Rule of 3”—if you’re a bit colorshocked, wear no more than 3 colors at once. This could be three neutrals; two brights and a neutral; two neutrals and a bright; et cetera. A good example of this rule enacted is a yellow shirt paired with a green skirt and black cardigan, tights, and shoes.
  4.  For instant polish when wearing dresses/skirts, match your shoes to your hose: Although this is relatively self-explanatory, it is worth noting that having tights in some basic solids including black, navy, brown, and gray and shoes to match help to instantly tie any skirt-centric outfit together. An added bonus is the leg-lengthening effect of matching your shoes and hose.
  5.  The “must have” item for fall and winter is…: ALWAYS a great coat. Save your pennies and invest in one (or several) winter coats that make you feel absolutely fab. Coats are all most people see on you in the coldest months, so if you love color, patterns, or a particular shape (whether pea or trapeze), invest in the details that will lift your heart and brighten your outlook on a cold, gray day.

Be sure to check out Stilista Boston and the Stilista Boston blog for more great tips from our talented team of stylists!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 332 other followers